Situation: You need to access a powerful linux machine remotely from another remote machine, with everything running on the remote machine (unlike a ssh -X, in which objects are rendered on your machine), while someone else is *already* working on that machine and doesn’t want to be distrubed.

Solution :
1. Install vncserver on remote machine, vncviewer on client
2. For the host machine running gnome and metacity window manager (e.g. ubuntu, fedora), edit ~/.vnc/xstartup to be something like this

#!/bin/sh

# Uncomment the following two lines for normal desktop:
#exec /etc/X11/xinit/xinitrc

[ -x /etc/vnc/xstartup ] && exec /etc/vnc/xstartup
[ -r $HOME/.Xresources ] && xrdb $HOME/.Xresources
xsetroot -solid grey
vncconfig -iconic &
xterm -geometry 80x24+10+10 -ls -title "$VNCDESKTOP Desktop" &
unset SESSION_MANAGER
gnome-session&
metacity&

(Thanks to http://forums.fedoraforum.org/archive/index.php/t-201885.html )
3. On host machine, run vncserver. A first time setup will run you through a password you want to assign
It’ll then start a vncserver. e.g. at New 'X' desktop is OCUPC:1
OCUPC being host name, and :1 the screen the server is attached to
4. On client machine, run vncviewer . Ta-da!